Trekking the Three Passes of Nepal and Reaching Everest Base Camp: An Adventure of High Passes and Great Heights
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Sweaty and gasping for breath, we slapped each other on the back as icy winds blasted our already limited breath away, tearing at the prayer flags marking our summit. We were an hour early for sunset, which gave us time to dress up, take a gander around, and find a cozy spot to witness the sun dipping down on the mighty Mount Everest, known as Sagarmāthā in the Nepali tongue. Perched at 5,644 meters, we couldn't ask for a better view of the highest mountain on Earth, unclouded and magical.
The Journey
From Lukla to Namche
The cockpit of our monkey-sized plane wasdevoid of any privacy, and the flashing lights gave us a headache. The pilots seemed unfazed, ignoring the "Terrain Hazard, Terrain Hazard" and "Too Low, Too Low" warnings. I glanced out the window and saw nothing but white. Our flight had been delayed for seven hours due to weather that made it impossible to land at Tenzing-Hillary airport, Lukla's infamous "most dangerous airport in the world." The flight attendant had but one rule on this flight: no photographs or recordings of the cockpit.
Brian and I exchanged nervous glances, but we trusted the pilots to get us to solid ground. After a nerve-wracking moment when the clouds parted, we touched down, slowed down quickly, and stopped with a thud. Relief washed over the four other passengers as we scurried off the plane, eager to embark on the 16-day trek ahead. We'd be traversing epic passes, reaching Base Camp, and scaling Kala Patthar to watch the sunset over Sagarmāthā.
In Lukla, our guide, Ramesh, introduced us to our porter, Prashant, and we tucked into our first meal of dal bhat, a lentil soup and vegetable curry with rice. Ready to hit the trail, we set off along the milky waters of the Dudh Koshi river, surrounded by ponderosa pine trees and rhododendron bushes. Sherpa settlements dotted the landscape, boasting vibrant green gardens and beds of marigolds, their bells ringing as we made way for donkeys or dzo, cow-yak hybrids. This was the only path leading to Everest, frequented by all who ventured there.
Though the surroundings were familiar, the environment was anything but. We felt transported to another world. As dawn broke, we completed our 200-meter descent from Lukla (2,800 meters) to Phakding (2,600 meters), eager for what was to come.
The second day ushered in the sweet scent of incense, made from mountain herbs offered to the deities, as it wafted through the valley. Our path would lead us to breathtaking views of Everest, cross iconic suspension bridges adorned with prayer flags, and pass through villages under construction. We marveled as we watched porters carry rebar and sheets of plywood, locals making gravel by hand, and others planting trees by hand to create boards. Namche itself welcomed us with opens arms, brimming with lodges, restaurants, bars, and gear stores. We were one of only two parties staying at our lodge, as the trail was largely devoid of other trekkers due to the late season and the pandemic.
Namche sat at 3,400 meters, so it was customary to spend a few nights here to aid in acclimatization. We appreciated the creature comforts and took a day to explore the Sherpa Museum and visit the Everest View Hotel (3,800 meters). The views from the restaurant were mind-blowing, with Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Thamserku visible, and gazing down upon all of them was both humbling and exhilarating.
Beyond Namche
The Journey to Lungden
After resupplying on Snickers and Pringles, two treats we rarely indulge in at home, we began our trek towards the Sherpa settlements of Thame and Lungden. The path diverged from the main one that headed to Base Camp. Our road was made lonely by five stray dogs and their company for several hours. The canines of Nepal were lovely, gentle creatures, better behaved than our own pup Otis at home. They seemed to find pleasure in our company, even if they weren't being fed.
As we climbed higher, the landscape grew more inhospitable. Fewer Sherpa villages and farms could be seen, and pine trees were replaced by scraggly juniper shrubs and grasslands. The donkeys and dzo were supplanted by yaks, well-suited to the high altitude. Cold nights crept in, and the common seating room in teahouses was warmed by fireplaces fueled by dung.
On our fourth night, we made a pilgrimage to the Thame Gompa, a picturesque monastery perched above Thame. A sense of spirituality enveloped us as we passed chorten, clusters of mani stones, and large boulders covered in Buddhist writings. We felt a sense of awe while reading the walls of the Thame teahouse, plastered with accolades and certificates. We had been told the lodge was owned by the family of Apa Sherpa, a former record holder for his 21 summits of Everest. Tragically, on August 16, 2024, Thame was hit hard by a flash flood after a glacial lake burst. Thankfully, there were no human casualties, but many structures were damaged or destroyed, and many people were displaced.
Lungden was a small village of just under 50 souls and nestled at 4,500 meters. The air grew thinner, forcing us to focus on acclimating for our upcoming Renjo la Pass hike, which would bring us to 5,400 meters.
The Adventure Beyond Renjo Pass
The anticipation and fear of the Renjo la Pass hike were palpable as we prepared to ascend. We had hiked at high altitudes before, but we knew that our bodies had only spent five days acclimating. We set out before dawn, fueled by pancakes and with headlamps ablaze, and began our gradual ascent. The sun peeked over the horizon as we were able to turn off our headlamps but not our jackets. Both Brian and I experienced our moments of struggle and questioned our life choices. At times, we swore that our next vacation would be on a beach with tropical drinks, but we pressed on, maintaining our mantra of "bistāri, bistārī" (slowly, slowly).
The spectacular view of Everest, covered in lenticular clouds that looked like a mustache, and the surrounding peaks of Lhotse, Cho Oyo, and Makalu soared above the turquoise Gokyo Lake at the base, took our breath away. We ascended, reached the crest of the pass, ducked beneath prayer flags, and were rewarded with the view we had longed for. To say it felt magical was an understatement.
We began our descent, completely at a loss for words, unpinning our gaze from the world's highest peak. Thankfully, Gokyo teahouses welcomed us with their sustenance, and we devoured momos and popcorn, our energy drained. The rest of the day was spent lazing in our dwelling, nursing our minor headaches, and gazing at the dramatic clouds and spectacular sunsets over Tibet's Cho Oyo mountain.
The Hike to Dzongla
Despite the snow that threatened, we decided to push towards our second pass a day early, foregoing a hike to the summit of Gokyo Ri. This decision was a blessing in disguise, as we were treated to jaw-dropping views of Cholatse and the extraordinary Renjo Lake. We took our time, savoring every step, before arriving knackered and famished in Dzongla. An underwhelming dinner of Western fare was a pleasant change from the usual dal bhat and dumplings.
Light snow fell, but the stars peeked through the clouds, and as the sun rose, we could see the path to Chola Pass. We left for the pass with our skis (microspikes) in hand and began the ascent, repeating our mantra of "bistāri, bistārī." We felt strong and acclimated, and took a moment to look back at the layers of mountains and the valley behind us. The skies cleared, easing our fears of a potential snowstorm or whiteout.
We reached the top, ducked under prayer flags, and took in the incredible view of Cholatse dominating the horizon. We were elated to have reached our goal and took photos to commemorate the occasion before beginning our descent. Ama Dablam stole the show, appearing larger than life as the smaller Ama hovered in the foreground.
Brian was ecstatic to discover that the classic British breakfast of baked beans, fried eggs, and toast was on the menu, and fellow Welsh adventurers shared in his excitement. With full stomachs, we exchanged stories of our day and other travels while the clouds rolled in over Ama Dablam.
From Dzongla to Gorak Shep, Kala Patthar, and Base Camp
As we ventured towards Lobuche, the trail rejoined the main one leading to EBC. The trail grew busy with trekkers, but crowds were nothing compared to the throngs that descended upon the site during expedition season. At our lodge in Lobuche, we met fellow explorers from Israel, America, and Chile. We spent the night reminiscing and dreaming of our next adventure, before setting our sights on Gorak Shep the following morning.
The night grew chillier in Gorak Shep, as we prepared to climb Kala Patthar and visit Base Camp, the latter not a priority for either of us. The views of Everest, Nuptse, and Pumori greeted us as we crawled over the rocky trail towards the village. With no clouds in the sky, we opted to ascend Kala Patthar that evening to watch the sunset on Everest. We had plenty of time to enjoy the breathtaking panoramic views of the Himalayas before beginning our climb.
We started our ascent, cheered on by the shifting ice groaning and groaning, before reaching the peak at 5,644 meters. The winds were biting, and our prayer flags fluttered as we gazed upon the world's mightiest range. The air was thin, but we continued upwards, eventually reaching the summit. The ensuing celebration felt like a Pièce de résistance, and the spectacular view would be etched in our memories forever.
The following day, daunted by the thought of another sleepless night at such high altitude, we set our sights on Everest Basecamp. As we crossed the desert-like sand and the rocky moraine of the Khumbu Glacier, we reached the glacier itself, taking in the awe-inspiring view of the Khumbu icefall, with its jagged towers, glacier blue at their base. It was hard to believe that tents could be set up on such rough terrain, where the Sherpa crews created platforms for the hopeful climbers.
The Hike Back to Dingboche and Tengboche
Brian's knees were protesting, so we opted to hike to the picturesque village of Dingboche instead of tackling the Kongma La pass. Any disappointment at missing out on the pass was quickly forgotten by the prospect of spending more time with our beloved Nano Air pants. We retraced our steps, marveling at the dramatic clouds and the surrounding giants. We carried on in silence, lost in thought as Ama Dablam dominated the horizon.
Spruce shrubs reappeared, growing taller as we descended, until they resembled trees again. Donkeys and dzo appeared once more, their bells creating a melodious soundtrack. In Tengboche, we visited the monastery and sat in silence as the monks chanted, the modern world receding into the distance.
The Return to Namche and Lukla
With only a few days of trekking left, our focus turned to familiar foods. We naively imagined that Namche would be a bustling city, but it was eerily quiet compared to our previous visit. The only animals making noise were the hundred resident dogs who barked all night. The landscape looked lush, marigolds and roses bloomed, and the gardens had more life than the streets. We felt a sense of nostalgia as we passed the numerous suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi river, crossing back into the Sagarmatha National Park and towards Lukla.
The epic journey through the beautiful Himalayas had come to an end, but its allure remained etched in our souls.
Kathmandu: An Assault on the Senses
We had mere hours in Kathmandu prior to our flight home, but before bidding farewell to Nepal, we had two whole days to explore the chaotic capital. Air pollution stung our eyes, cars and motorcycles honked their horns with reckless abandon, and the restaurants, incense shops, and litter on the streets overwhelmed our senses. We discussed our trek over a beer, basking in its magic as the world seemed jagged and difficult to fit back into.
Kathmandu was a stark contrast to the serenity of the Himalayas, but it was also a gateway, and after two weeks in the mountains, we were ready for the hustle and bustle.
Reflections: Life-Changing Experiences and Memories
While we were in Nepal, catastrophic floods ravished our home province of British Columbia, and a new COVID variant emerged. Though we heard murmurings, we were largely oblivious to the news, completely immersed in the enchantment of the Himalayas. When we resurfaced, the world felt jagged and difficult to fit back into, and Kathmandu was overwhelming. Our time in these special mountains provided us with a much-needed break, and we will always carry their beauty and magic with us.
Choosing a Trekking Company or Going Independent
Trekking company or guide or no guide? Solo or with a porter? Brian and I struggled with whether to hike self-supported, as we typically do, or whether to hire a trekking company. Given our two-week window, the complexities caused by the global pandemic, and our desire to support the Nepalese trekking economy, we chose the relative ease of a trekking company. With this, we had a private guide and the luxury of a porter. We still considered going without a porter, but the cost savings were only $250 for 16 days, and we were still staying true to our conscious by providing work for one man who had been out of work for a year.
Many laws regarding hiking solo seem unclear, but in April 2023, Nepal mandated that trekkers must hire a guide if they plan to travel in any of Nepal's 12 national parks and six conservation areas, including Annapurna and Manaslu circuits and EBC (Everest Base Camp). The three passes or any hike in the Everest region would be simple without a guide, but hiring a guide helps to support the local community, which is heavily impacted by foreigners.
We chose Adventure Treks Nepal and would recommend them without hesitation. Both our guide, Ramesh, and our porter, Prashant, were exceptional, and we made friends during our journey. If you choose to hire a trekking company, be sure to choose one that is licensed.
Entry and Exit Requirements
We embarked on this journey in November 2021, and at that time, fully vaccinated visitors were not required to quarantine. This changed on December 15, 2021, the day we returned home. To clear immigration, we needed a completed CCMC (COVID-19 Crisis Management Center) document, proof of vaccination, and a negative PCR test. These requirements have since changed, and as of May 26, 2023, neither a certificate of vaccination nor a negative PCR test are required for entry or exit. It is essential to be aware of ever-changing entry and exit requirements. Currently, the U.S. Department of State or (in our case) the Government of Canada websites are excellent places to start.
We also had to provide proof of a hotel booking, our trekking permit, proof of insurance covering trekking, and our boarding passes. Most of these requirements have since been lifted, but it is still essential to check the current requirements for your home country and Nepal.
Other Helpful Tips for Trekking Everest
- There is a lot of downtime when hiking at high altitudes. Pressing on and covering ground is often not feasible due to acclimatization requirements.
- Be aware of altitude sickness, with HACE and HAPE being major concerns. The best treatment is to descend to a lower elevation. Lactated Ringers solution was given to trekkers exhibiting signs of altitude sickness at Gorak Shep.
- This area of Nepal can get cold, especially at night. Our Nalgene water bottle froze in our room at night. The teahouses provide blankets, but a winter sleeping bag is recommended. We each had -18°C bags and often slept in our jackets. Sleeping bags can be rented in Kathmandu if you do not already have a winter bag.
- Though randdom purposely misspelled Bob Marley songs, such as "Get Up, Stand Up" and "Moving Mountains," echoed through several teahouses, music in Nepal is often electronic and pop. Be prepared for tunes by artists such as Black Eyed Peas, Justin Bieber, and Ed Sheeran.
- After our descent from Renjo la Pass, we wondered what awaited us at the foot of the pass, trekking through a landscape adorned with juniper shrubs and grasslands.
- In the teahouses of Lungden, we warmed ourselves by fireplaces fueled by dung, feeling transported to another world as we prepared for the Renjo la Pass hike.
- We marveled at the monastery Thame Gompa perched above Thame, its spirituality enveloping us as we passed numerous Buddhist writings and mani stones.
- In Tengboche, we visited the monastery and sat in silence as the monks chanted, the modern world receding into the distance, providing a stark contrast to the serenity of the Himalayas.
- With our adventure coming to an end, we trekked back towards Lukla, the bustling heart of the Everest region, feeling a sense of nostalgia as we passed the suspension bridges and lush gardens.
