Traditional Japanese inns' food faces decreased enthusiasm from foreign travelers, leading to modifications in Kyoto's culinary landscape.
The Allure of Kyoto Fades: Traditional Inns Adjust Their Menus
Kyoto, one of Japan's most popular tourist destinations, is grappling with a surge in visitors that's exposing overtourism issues and altering the local tourism landscape. But it's not just the city's skyrocketing popularity that's causing a stir—it's also the traditional Japanese travel experience that foreign tourists seem less enthralled by.
Steeped in classical Japanese culture, many travelers flock to Kyoto's ryokan, traditional Japanese inns. These accommodations don't just offer a cozy bed for the night—they also serve in-room meals, typically featuring a multi-course dinner on each night of your stay, followed by breakfast in the morning. The meals often showcase a wide assortment of traditional dishes such as grilled fish and nimono (simmered meats and vegetables).
The Dilemma Facing Ryokan
Despite Japanese cuisine's growing popularity worldwide, many of the dishes that foreign tourists crave—like ramen, curry rice, or wagyu steak—aren't typically found on ryokan menus. Popular Japanese dishes aren't the only issue; even sushi and sashimi take a backseat, often appearing only as minor side dishes, particularly in landlocked Kyoto.
This disconnect between tourists' expectations and the reality of ryokan dining is causing headaches for innkeepers. Uneaten meals, last-minute cancellations, and requests for partial refunds are becoming commonplace, forcing ryokan to engage in time-consuming negotiations with overseas credit card companies—often in a language they don't share.
Shifting Priorities
Some travelers aren't satisfied with the traditional fare and choose to book no-meals packages. But even those who opt for the full meals-included experience might struggle to navigate the subtleties of kaiseki cuisine, which features refined seasonal dishes and delicate flavors. This can lead to large portions going uneaten or foreign tourists seeking alternatives mid-stay.
Adapting to Meet Demand
With Japanese travelers increasingly opting for accommodation without meals, and foreign tourists showing a lukewarm reception to traditional offerings, some ryokan are paring back their meal offerings or abolishing them altogether. Some are offering simpler breakfast fare, like rice, miso soup, or toast, while others are switching to bento boxed meals or serving as intermediaries for reservations at outside restaurants.
This change isn't solely a response to foreign demand; it's also driven by logistical and financial factors. Meal packages require careful ingredient procurement and labor-intensive preparation. When guests reject meals, ryokans face wasted costs and administrative hurdles resolving disputes with overseas payment processors.
Furthermore, many ryokans struggle to retain chefs specialized in kaiseki cuisine, as Japan's hospitality labor crisis continues to unfold. Low wages and high workloads deter younger workers, forcing some inns to eliminate meals entirely when chefs retire.
One ryokan recently opted to stop serving meals altogether after its chef retired, as 90% of its clientele consists of foreign tourists who showed little interest in traditional offerings.
Implications for the Future
As inbound tourism continues to influence Kyoto's ryokan scene, the demand for traditional meals could wane—dramatically reshaping the city's tourism landscape and adding another layer of complexity to a city already struggling with overtourism woes.
Sources:[1] Toyo Keizai via Livedoor News via Jin[2] SoraNews24[3] Nikkei Asian Review
Additional Reads:- As more foreign visitors visit Kyoto's top sights, Japanese travelers increasingly staying away- Japan’s 10 best ryokan inns and top 10 hotels, as chosen by foreign visitors- Travel back in time to this timeless Japanese hot spring inn from the Taisho period【Photos】
- In response to the growing popularity of Japan and a demand for diverse food options, traditional Japanese inns, or ryokan, in Kyoto are facing difficulties with the discrepancy between tourist expectations and their national cuisine offerings.
- While Japanese cuisine gains recognition worldwide, dishes like ramen, curry rice, or wagyu steak are rarely found on ryokan menus, creating a confusion for foreign travelers.
- The inability of some travelers to appreciate the intricacies of traditional kaiseki cuisine, such as its delicate flavors and refined seasonal dishes, also contributes to the issue.
- To adapt, many ryokan are streamlining their meal offerings or offering alternatives such as simpler breakfasts, bento boxed meals, or restaurant reservations.
- This shift is not only driven by foreign demand but also by logistical and financial factors, as meal packages require careful ingredient procurement and labor-intensive preparation.
- The absense of chefs specialized in kaiseki cuisine due to Japan's ongoing hospitality labor crisis also drives this change, forcing some ryokan to eliminate meals entirely when chefs retire.
- As a result, some ryokan have stopped serving meals altogether, catering more to foreign tourists' preference for food-and-drink experiences that align with their expectations and travel lifestyle.
- These changes, influenced by inbound tourism, have the potential to significantly reshape Kyoto's tourism landscape, adding another layer of complexity to a city already grappling with overtourism concerns.
