Navigating Greenland's Arctic Circle Trail: A Personal Account of My Adventure

Swagger in, ya mug, to this wild stroll through frozen tundra: Greenland's Arctic Circle Trail! Ditching my preconceptions faster than ice melts in a damn sauna, this ain't just a heap of white shit and frostbite - Greenland's got some color in its life, baby!

Population-wise, Greenland's about as sparse as a snowman without a carrot nose. You could fit Mexico's population in Greenland over 25 times and still have room for a leprechaun party! That leaves A LOT of wilderness to immerse yourself in.

Kangerlussuaq, the small town with a whopping population of 500 souls, is where my arctic adventure began. Greenland's largest airport sits in this chilly burg, making it the perfect kickoff point.

The Arctic Circle Trail's often lauded as one of the best long-distance hikes in the world, stretching a stunning 164 kilometers (that's over 102 miles for any brainiacs still clinging to the ol' imperial system) from the ice cap to the fishing town of Sisimiut on the west coast. With somewhere in the region of 7-12 days to complete, this journey requires a good fitness level and more than a dash of hiking know-how to tackle the ever-changing terrain and weather.

The solitude of this hike is a big draw. More people visit Disneyland in a single day than each year hike the Arctic Circle Trail. Sharing the trail with just a couple of other adventurers each day? Sounds like perfectionist's heaven.

Starting out, I decided to embark 40 kilometers east on the ice cap to mix things up. Hey, variety is the spice of life, even in the frozen tundra, right? The only towns are at the beginning and end, forcing me to haul my own grub for the entire hike and chuck my cell phone out the window. In this wilderness, I'd be cut off from the hyper-connected world and relish the peace and quiet.

When the sun dipped below the horizon as I strolled through Kangerlussuaq one dark'n'stormy night, I couldn't help but feel elated at embarking on this uncharted odyssey. I mean, who needs a view of fireworks when you can stare at the Northern Lights, right?

Day 1: Ice Cap Explorations

The hike kicked off proper as I set foot on the ice cap. Four hours in a 4x4 truck had taken me to Point 660, where I began my journey west. Being located above the Arctic Circle, it was still light out after my delayed flight from Copenhagen.

But there I was, brick-shitting scared walking a hundred miles from nowhere, drawn like a moth to a flame by the promise of adventure. The ice, a grippy, crusty shitshow, was like nothing I'd ever experienced before. I couldn't help but wonder if I was the first human to ever set foot on this sheet of frozen water.

As I took in the view, my eyes were drawn to a river of blue meltwater winding through an otherwise white-as-virgin-snow landscape. I could barely believe my luck! Getting to stand on an ice cap ain't an everyday occurrence. As I soaked up the views, thunderclouds rolled in, and mother nature kindly nudged me back towards civilization with snowflakes and an icy tongue-lashing.

The trail took a turn as rivers of water turned into dunes of sand and greenish-yellow landscapes. I even spotted the elusive arctic hare and an arctic fox bounding away! A couple more snowy days, filled with more hiking and wildlife sightings, and I arrived back in Kangerlussuaq. Time to bid adieu to the icy wilds and set up camp in the cozy confines of the Polar Lodge.

Day 2: Off the Beaten Track

The tang of burning ice filled the air as I edged closer to Russell Glacier. The towering wall of ice looked like a cliff from a scene in The Mummy, complete with loose gravel cascading down in great heaps. The sight o' this hulking mass o' ice made me feel as small as the ants I'd encountered in my kitchen just the week before.

After witnessing the impressive spectacle for a bit, I ventured further, following the glacial river through arctic deserts and eventually arriving in Kangerlussuaq after six bone-tiring hours. With legs aching and mind buzzing, I crashed out in my comfy little Polar Lodge hotel room, finally catching up on some much-needed shut-eye.

Day 3: Starting Out On Remoteness

Drats! I'd goofed up by buying the wrong gas canister for my backpacking stove. It seemed none of the good folks in Kangerlussuaq had one to spare, so I'd be hiking with nothing but nature's ingredients: crackling fires and melted snow. No biggie, though. I'd survive; pussycats shit in the woods, right?

Skip hire a taxi and dive in, I started walking the road towards the trailhead. Nothing much to see along here, just a tiny shipping port, a heap of diesel tanks, and a scientific research station where they study Northern Lights and the atmosphere.

Since the end of the American air base, this place has evolved into Greenland's international airport. Just past the post-apocalyptic vibes of the old base lay the first real sight of the Arctic Circle Trail: an arctic fox blinking its golden eyes at me through the barbed wire fence.

After another 9 days of trekking and frolicking in the wilderness, I'd finally reach Sisimiut, where I could sully my boot prints with a cold beer and a hot shower. ★

Navigating Greenland's Arctic Circle Trail: A Personal Account of My Adventure